In the heart of western Europe, northwest of Geneva, in the surprisingly remote common corner of France, Germany and Switzerland there is a spur of the great Alpine mountain system: The Jura Alps. In most circles the range here is nowhere near as famous as other parts of the Alps. Among some however, it is legendary, as it is the geologist's type section for the Jurassic Period (yes, that Jurassic Period). This is the story of an exploration on foot of the western foothills of the Jura Mountains - a land of valley and ridge, vineyards, and happy cows...
JURA
Daybreak - a time-filled and yet timeless land. The original abbey in Baume dates back to the end of the late 6th Century. The narrow streets are empty now, I seem to have this corner of the world to myself...
daybreak: baume-les-messieurs
Later in the day I will look down upon Baume-les-Messieurs from the spot of the rising sun. The walk will start by moving away from the sun to reach the caprock before traversing the rim to the eastern skyline. We'll not return until just before the setting sun.
morning moods
Caprock. The bluffs are composed of Jurassic limestone, hard, brittle, a record of marine life frozen in time. The slopes and the valley floor below are composed of Marl, a limey rock containing a large percentage of clay minerals. It is on the Marl that the vineyards are located, the unusual composition providing the mineral-forward basis for the region's wines.
caprock
The other great product of the region: fromage, the exquisite French cheeses. Fromage standards are high; it also means that care is taken with French dairy herds. Here we are saying hello to some curious new friends who have come to greet us...
making new friends
On the country track to Saint Lothain we encounter another friend, a dog named Joie who decides to accompany us to St. Lothain. There is only a phone number on her collar; we leave a message and then take Joie back to the hamlet where she picked us up. Her human was very happy to have her back.
climbing into fall
Chateau Chalon sits precariously on the edge of the bluff with a stunning view over the western Jura foothills. The original abbey dates back to 662 AD; the current roof differs little from original construction practices dating back to the Dark Ages: stone tiles.
late morning: Chateau chalon
By mid-afternoon, the forested ridgelines are preferable to the open countryside of the vineyards. In the wood's cool shadows, it is easy to get lost in time... The walls are simple stackstone, no cement required. How long have they been here? How many generations have rebuilt them in this way? Will they look the same another century hence?...
time/timeless
Making yet more friends...
By mid-afternoon our humble lunch fare is long-since consumed (apple, baguette, a hard cheese) as we encounter these two at the forest's edge. Delighted to see us, their disappointment is palpable when we have northing to offer. (Note to self: always have an apple in reserve).
more friends
Walking along a rather languid stream - and feeling somewhat indolent at this point myself - I'm caught short by the brilliant white bridge ahead. All the architectural elements in the Jura are earth tones of the native limestone. I'm not sure who or why, but the surprise is welcome...
afternoon light
Vineyard country. The lower slopes still role up and down, the sky is expansive, the sun warm. Except for very steep pitches on some of the hills - where rough concrete has been poured in order for tires to gain traction - the walk is exactly what it looks like...
in the vineyards
The walk into town at day's end is appreciated on a number of levels. The sun (and the heat) have eased off, shortly I will also ease my boots off, and scenes like this one typically greet you.
evening
For a pastoralist, it doesn't get any better. The sense of place on the part of those who live here, the sense of pace as well. Eating as an act of appreciation and gratitude, the commitment to welcome us, our commitment to seeking illumination...reflecting the light...